The Yolngu people opened the 19th Garma Festival with a stirring traditional ceremony—bodies painted, clapsticks beating, feet stamping, calls echoing native animals and songlines passed down over tens of thousands of years. The four-day event on Gumatj land in north-east Arnhem Land—the most important gathering of the year for Indigenous Australia—is a time for talking and listening, as well as dance, music and stories from the oldest continuous culture on earth.